Under-Dressed in Buenos Aires

By The Family

Money, money, money. For the first time, our one bag of clothes seemed inadequate. Located in the “Rodeo Drive” section of Buenos Aires, our modern apartment was surrounded by chic boutiques and cafes. Across the street was the city’s ritziest shopping plaza. And all around us were people who clearly kept these shops in business.

Stores Next Door:


We, on the other hand, looked like we were on long exercise walks in our quick-dry t-shirts and zip-off shorts! Although Argentina has supposedly been in recession for several years, we were amazed by how many people were shopping and sitting at the cafes and restaurants. It was also interesting to see so many people up early exercising in the city’s parks and then staying up for late-night meals, often starting at 10 pm.

One of Many Shopping Plazas:


Each day we explored a different section of the city. There was the ecological sanctuary that was tucked in behind Puerto Madero. Stretching for about a half mile, Puerto Madero is a series of cafes and restaurants that line both sides of the harbor.

On another day, we visited La Recoleta, the city’s famous cemetery in which Evita Peron tomb is located. The cemetery is huge maze of tombs, each rising 10-20 feet high, forming long narrow alleys. In several, a small altar sits next to narrow stairs that descend to an underground room in which family members are laid to rest. On many corners stand large statues commemorating a wealthy family or important leader. As we explored, we thought how easy it would be to get lost among the many rows that branched off in all directions.

The Peron Family Tomb:



On multiple occasions, we strolled along Avenida Florida, a pedestrian walking mall that stretches for several blocks and is lined with stores and entertainers. One morning, we visited San Telmo, another walking mall that is famous for El Indio, a man who has been dancing tango with his partner in Dorrega Square for decades. In addition to El Indio, the square is filled with artisans selling paintings, pottery, jewelry, and woolen garments.

El Indio and Streets Filled with artisans:


Street Scenes:



While visiting several of the city’s squares and plazas, we came upon the Casa Rosada (Pink House). This was the former Presidential Palace and is where Evita Peron delivered several speeches to crowds of people that filled the Plaza de Mayo that stretches for several blocks from the house’s front door.



One evening, we splurged for a tango show, which included a four-course meal and stretched beyond midnight. Although tired, Darius and Micayla enjoyed the dancing they had heard so much about.



In the northern section of the city, there was a collection of parks that included a large zoo, botanical garden, and a very peaceful Japanese garden. These areas gave Darius and Micayla short breaks from city-life. While most of the animals in the zoo were in enclosed pens, there were a few that were allowed to room free (or were very good at escaping). Among them were a small deer-like creature and a musk rat.

While in Buenos Aires, we enjoyed the best ice cream during our trip. The kids were also pleased to discover that a cup of coffee comes standard with a small plate of cookies and Dad’s beers were always accompanied by a basket of potato chips! Within a few days, we also learned why medialunas are on every menu and every patron’s plate. Medialunas are a buttery version of a small croissant, but better than any croissant we have ever tasted. Needless to say, despite looking like we were constantly exercising, our waistlines managed to expand further.

Final Supper in one of Buenos Aires Famous Parrillas: