Surf's Up in Punta del Este

By Micayla and Darius

It was such a bummer that our parents had to wake us up early for the ferry ride to Uruguay. When we finally got out of bed, dressed, and brushed our teeth, we had to take a taxi to the Buqeubus terminal (where the ferries leave). Even though it was early, there was a long line of cars trying to get to the door. Lucky for us our taxi driver skipped the line and did a u-turn to sneak us to the front of the line. After getting out of the car and into the terminal, we had to wait in a long line to check our bags, and then another line for customs. Luckily, the customs line was set up so that there was someone from each country sitting next to each other. One person stamped our passports to leave Argentina and the other stamped them for coming into Uruguay. After entering the ferry, we found our seats and got comfortable for the 3 hour ride. At first we went slow, and then once we were in the river we went faster. Outside we watched the sun rise over the very wide, brown river that looked like chocolate milk (but I would not drink it). Unfortunately for us, the family behind us had two kids that they didn’t care about, so we had to listen to them whining, making lots of noise and singing for three hours! When we finally arrived in Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, we got our bag and took a taxi to the Sheraton Hotel.

When we got to the Sheraton, we checked in and went up to our room. We saw signs for a pool, so Micayla and I were really excited. Once we got settled in, we wanted to go to the pool, but mom and dad said we had to eat lunch. We ate at a parrillada across the street which had great pit-grilled meats. When we got back to our room, Micayla and I insisted that we go swimming. Once in the pool, which was on the top floor and overlooked the entire city, we were surprised how warm the water was. It was like a giant bathtub with 90 degree water. There were a bunch of noodles and dad had an idea of trying to get all the noodles under me like I was riding a horse. Once on them all, Micayla pushed me and I did a big flip.

After swimming, we went to the mall that was connected to the Sheraton. There were lots of shops from the USA like Urban Outfitters and GEOX. After looking around, we decided to go into the old part of the city for dinner. When we arrived, we saw lots of people getting ready for the first day of Carnival. So, instead of getting dinner, we got a small snack at a café and then watched the parade. There were lots of floats, bands, and dancing groups. There were also women wearing costumes made of feathers and tiny bikinis.

Dancing in the Street:


Floats:


Women in Costume:



After the parade, we got dinner at a restaurant in a walking mall and went home for bed. But we could not go straight to bed because the Super Bowl was just starting. We watched the first half in bed (we were 3 hours ahead so the game did not start until 9:30 for us).

The next morning, we slept so late that we did not get to go swimming before breakfast. We went down for the Sheraton breakfast, but it was expensive and not so great. Instead, we found a café in the mall and had a yummy breakfast of medialunas and hot chocolate. Dad then rented a car and we headed to Punta del Este. The first part of the drive was along the shore of the river/ocean that lined Montevideo. It was like driving along a very long Miami Beach. Then we headed a little inland which was mostly green, rolling farms with small mountains way off in the back. After a while, we came to the ocean and could see Punta del Este. Again, it was like seeing Miami with high rises next to the ocean. We drove right to the house we were renting, but then realized that we did not call the person who had the key. So, we had to go find a phone back in town. By now, we were hungry so we found another beef place and ate there. It was yummy. All full, we called the person who had the key and got to check into our house. While my parents learned where everything was in the house, me and Darius hid under their bed and banged our feet. But when my mom and dad came upstairs, we were quiet and they could not find us. Finally they did, and we decided to walk down to the beach.

The beach was at the end of our street. To get to the beach, we had to walk on a wood bridge that crossed two huge sand dunes. Some kids were “snow boarding” on the sand dunes. The beach was beautiful. It had white sand and stretched for a long way in both directions. There were also huge waves coming onto the beach. My dad and I went in to body surf. We did that for a while until I got pulled under by a wave. I got out to build a sandcastle with Micayla while my dad went out further to bodysurf the bigger waves. When he came out, he wasn’t wearing his sunglasses or hair band. He said they got pulled off by a huge wave that pulled him down to the bottom of the sea. He was disappointed, but kept looking for them in the water, but never found them. After a while, we packed up and went home.

The next day, we drove further north to one town called La Barra and then onto another town called Jose Ignacio. La Barra is a big surf town. Jose Ignacio is an old fishing town that is now being used to build funky homes for people from Buenos Aires. In Jose Ignacio there was a lighthouse that we climbed up to the top and looked out. We also climbed on some rocks where people were fishing and then went on a short walk along the beach. It was nice but we were glad we were staying closer to Punta del Este where there were more stores and different beaches.

View from Lighthouse:


Over the next few days, we explored several beaches and the town. Punta del Este is divided into three main parts. On western side of the peninsula, the water is calmer and the ocean is lined by lots of tall apartment buildings. The beaches are also pretty crowded (at the least the ones we saw). On the eastern side of the point, the ocean has huge waves, the beach is wider, and there are more houses and small apartment buildings lining the road. And in the middle is the town, which looks very much like any large town at home. There are nice streets with wide sidewalks, lots of cafes and stores, and even a big mall with a very fancy grocery store. You could get just about anything in it! Because we did not have Internet in our house, my dad brought us to the mall a lot for ice cream and to do some school work so that he could do stuff on-line.

A little farther down the road was La Barra. To get there, we had to cross a cool wavy bridge that was like a mini-roller coaster. We ended up going to the beach there a few times because they had surf lessons. I (Darius) decided I wanted to take a surf lesson. It was only $20 for a board, wetsuit, and an hour lesson with someone that spoke English. When the instructor came up and got us, he asked if this was my first lesson and I said yes. He showed me and another kid how to get on the board and then we went out. We waited for a wave and when one came, the instructor would push the board. I got up on my first try! When I was surfing, it was fun because you were up on a wave, but it was also a little scary because when you fell the board sometimes hit me in the head. Another time a kid lost control and almost hit me. The next day, my dad decided to take a lesson with me. It took him a long time before he could get up. And, once up, he fell very quickly. But, by the end of the lesson, he was getting up more easily and could stand for a little while. I was also getting better and really like it. We took one more lesson together before we left.

Like Father:


Like Son:


Another great thing about La Barra was the medialunas calientes. These were even better than the ones in Buenos Aires for two reasons. First, they were hot right out of the oven. And they also brushed a little honey on top of them. The first day, we got 8. But that was not enough. The next time, we got 12. But that was not enough. The third time we got 24. That was enough for a snack and for the car ride the next day.

On one of our last days, we drove to a cliff on the western side of the point and watched the sun set. It was really windy on the cliff, but my dad let us walk down with him to be closer to the water. As we went down, we thought we were going to blow away. But then when we got close to the water, the wind almost stopped. We climbed back up and watched the sun go down. It was a really nice way to end our stay at Punta del Este.



As note, we want to thank our neighbor, Kevin, for suggesting that we visit Punta del Este. It was a wonderful place that managed to exceed the high expectations built up by Kevin!

Under-Dressed in Buenos Aires

By The Family

Money, money, money. For the first time, our one bag of clothes seemed inadequate. Located in the “Rodeo Drive” section of Buenos Aires, our modern apartment was surrounded by chic boutiques and cafes. Across the street was the city’s ritziest shopping plaza. And all around us were people who clearly kept these shops in business.

Stores Next Door:


We, on the other hand, looked like we were on long exercise walks in our quick-dry t-shirts and zip-off shorts! Although Argentina has supposedly been in recession for several years, we were amazed by how many people were shopping and sitting at the cafes and restaurants. It was also interesting to see so many people up early exercising in the city’s parks and then staying up for late-night meals, often starting at 10 pm.

One of Many Shopping Plazas:


Each day we explored a different section of the city. There was the ecological sanctuary that was tucked in behind Puerto Madero. Stretching for about a half mile, Puerto Madero is a series of cafes and restaurants that line both sides of the harbor.

On another day, we visited La Recoleta, the city’s famous cemetery in which Evita Peron tomb is located. The cemetery is huge maze of tombs, each rising 10-20 feet high, forming long narrow alleys. In several, a small altar sits next to narrow stairs that descend to an underground room in which family members are laid to rest. On many corners stand large statues commemorating a wealthy family or important leader. As we explored, we thought how easy it would be to get lost among the many rows that branched off in all directions.

The Peron Family Tomb:



On multiple occasions, we strolled along Avenida Florida, a pedestrian walking mall that stretches for several blocks and is lined with stores and entertainers. One morning, we visited San Telmo, another walking mall that is famous for El Indio, a man who has been dancing tango with his partner in Dorrega Square for decades. In addition to El Indio, the square is filled with artisans selling paintings, pottery, jewelry, and woolen garments.

El Indio and Streets Filled with artisans:


Street Scenes:



While visiting several of the city’s squares and plazas, we came upon the Casa Rosada (Pink House). This was the former Presidential Palace and is where Evita Peron delivered several speeches to crowds of people that filled the Plaza de Mayo that stretches for several blocks from the house’s front door.



One evening, we splurged for a tango show, which included a four-course meal and stretched beyond midnight. Although tired, Darius and Micayla enjoyed the dancing they had heard so much about.



In the northern section of the city, there was a collection of parks that included a large zoo, botanical garden, and a very peaceful Japanese garden. These areas gave Darius and Micayla short breaks from city-life. While most of the animals in the zoo were in enclosed pens, there were a few that were allowed to room free (or were very good at escaping). Among them were a small deer-like creature and a musk rat.

While in Buenos Aires, we enjoyed the best ice cream during our trip. The kids were also pleased to discover that a cup of coffee comes standard with a small plate of cookies and Dad’s beers were always accompanied by a basket of potato chips! Within a few days, we also learned why medialunas are on every menu and every patron’s plate. Medialunas are a buttery version of a small croissant, but better than any croissant we have ever tasted. Needless to say, despite looking like we were constantly exercising, our waistlines managed to expand further.

Final Supper in one of Buenos Aires Famous Parrillas:

Mendoza

By The Family

After nearly two months of hotel rooms, we were excited to have an entire apartment to ourselves! Located across from the central plaza and right above an ice cream store, we could not have had a better location.

Our first two days were spent resting and recovering from our first bouts with bugs. In contrast to the hustle and bustle of Santiago, Mendoza moved at a quieter and slower pace. In fact, nearly the entire city shut down during the middle of the day when the sun was at its hottest, allowing us to take long breaks in the cool of our apartment. We soon learned that mid-day naps were also helpful for staying awake during dinner, as most restaurants did not begin to open until 8 o’clock!

Located on the eastern side of the Andes, Mendoza is a very quiet city of about 1.5 million people. During the winters, it attracts skiers who ascend the snow covered Andes. During the summer, the air is dry and warm, and tourists flock in to enjoy some of Argentina’s most fertile vineyards. Given that the temperatures frequently reach the high 90s by mid-day, the city is fortunate to have preserved the thousands of trees that line its wide streets.



During the mornings, we enjoyed exploring the tree lined streets and parks. For lunch, we discovered that the best deals could be found at the local parrillas. Here you paid a fixed price and could sample as much meat and side dishes as you wanted. Tucked into one side of each parrilla, there was an open-fire pit with a cook serving steak, pork, chicken, sausages, and other cuts that aren’t found in our grocery stores at home.



A short car ride outside of the city was wine country. Like California’s wine country, vineyards were spread across the valley floor, with the tall, dry Andes Mountains as a backdrop. We visited two of the oldest vineyards. The first, called Bodega Lopez, was established over 100 years ago by a man who brought vines from Italy. In addition to several tasty wines and acres of grape vines, the Bodega had a museum dedicated to wine making that was filled with antique and modern equipment. There was even a cowhide “trampoline” dating back more than 400 years. Men would stomp on grapes thrown onto the cowhide, squeezing out the juice that was then barreled to become wine.




Large Stone Olive Press and Ancient Wine Press:


Another vineyard, also established over a 100 years ago, had storage barrels that were about 20 feet high. Tucked in between the vineyards, there were small chocolatiers, liquor and olive oil shops. These were fun to tour as they also had free tastings.




Chocolate and Liquors:


While visiting one olive farm, we learned that black and green olives come from the same tree. Green olives are harvested earlier in the season, while black olives are left to ripen longer. We also learned that all of the olives are picked by hand!

By week’s end, we had become accustomed to Mendoza’s easy pace. Feeling well rested, we also found our clothes a little tighter!